Three years ago, I began the exciting journey of creating clothing from the early Edwardian era. Although, within the last few months of 2019 I have become solely obsessed with the late Victorian and Edwardian fashions. Gowns, skirts and bodices worn from 1880s-1910 primarily take up most of my daydreaming and wardrobe wishes.
However this ensemble began in the summer of 2017, and I never got around to finishing it. Poor dedication on my part, I admit. But I generally remember what I did to create this ensemble.
Inspiration & Motivation
I had studied and looked through dozens of photos, books, magazines, blogs and websites to try and figure out what would create the correct shape and style of the skirt and bodice. Therefore, I decided to create a Leg-Of-Mutton sleeve with a loosely fitted bodice with a black satin ribbon accent.
Front of Silk net and embroidered lace bodice. Circa 1903-1905. Source: FIDM Museum.
Back of Silk net and embroidered lace bodice. Circa 1903-1905. Source: FIDM Museum.
Materials & Self-Drafted Pattern:
If you want to create your own bodice similar to mine, here is a rough pattern that I created, just to get the idea across. I am a firm believer in drafting my own pattern and not using someone else’s hard work and ideas, so I’ve only shown the basic layout of my pattern. Though I created this pattern, I added and changed it according to what I wanted the final result to become.
For the bodice, I used a white, striped cotton fabric (almost like a cotton lawn) with subtle detailing in between the stripes, delicate 1 inch lace, 2 inch eyelet trim, flat pearled buttons, and a black satin ribbon for the tie.
For the cuffs, I used the striped cotton, plain white cotton for lining, and thick interfacing to keep the cuff stiff when worn, and flat pearled buttons,.
Constructing the “Leg-of-Mutton” Sleeves
For the 1 inch lace I had, there was a transparent stripe down the middle, flanked by the lacy detailing on the edges. I wanted the transparent bit to act as an accent piece on the sleeves. I didn’t want the white cotton to be seen underneath the transparency, so I began the process by folding the long edge of the sleeves over twice, then pinned the edge of the lace to the top of the folded cotton. When I sewed the lace down, this would result in a finished edge for the cotton under the lace, while leaving the transparent stripe untouched.
Constructing the Cuff
The length of the cuff should end about 2-3 inches below your elbow, which will create a puffed, leg-of-mutton full sleeve when worn. Measure the circumference of your forearm and wrist, then find the length of how long the cuff should be on your forearm, and add half an inch to one side (to make room for the button/button holes. Create your pattern from there, adding 5/8 seam allowance to all sides. I inserted the thick interfacing into the cuff after the cotton and lining were stitched together, then stitched the cuff closed to prevent warp. I proceeded to add the button holes and buttons to the cuff, making sure that the measurements were correct and the fit was perfect.
Designing the Bodice
When constructing the bodice, I’d recommend making the closure in the front with hooks and eyes and adding faux buttons down the back (for ease of getting dressed). The front two panels are joined together by eyelets and the 2 inch cotton strip… designed to have folds in the front, flanked by the eyelet trim. I then stitched the 4 front and back panels together and gathered and pleated it so that when I had my corset, corset cover, and other layers on, the bodice could be appropriately fitted to fit me and work with the Edwardian silhouette. At the top, I made two slits in the cotton for the satin ribbon to weave through the bodice (look at the above image for reference). With leftover eyelet trim, I measured the circumference of my neck and stitched the trim to the bodice, and stitched it to the neckline. Finally, I felled all the raw edges and thus the bodice was complete.
Stay tuned for the construction of the skirt, a discussion of the matching hat, and final images of the ensemble! It will be lovely to have it finally finished.
Happy 2020, – Elise
#fashion #1903 #walkingskirt #sewingpins #costumedesigner #research #costuming #seamstress #Sewingthroughtime #historical #eyelettrim #buttons #Edwardian #historian #HistoricalSewing #legofmutton #bodice #pearlbuttons #trim #lace #stripes #historicalCostume #cotton #walkingensemble #Sewing #sleeves #costume