Masquerades. The literal definition of the epitome of over-the-topness… as far as fashion and costuming goes. It’s the event that has always been taken very seriously by people around the world (with the obvious exception of costumers, as our whole lives are basically masquerades.) Thanks to movies, vintage photographs, museum archives, and the influence from one particular musical in general, (Phantom of the Opera), we have observed the lavishness of masquerades for decades.
Imagine it… a person could dress as lavishly and over the top as they wish, and it was perfectly acceptable and actually encouraged and expected for you to partake. For us, dressing up once in a blue moon is rather unique, and going to an actual event where people are dressed in grand attire is a novelty.
But can you imagine a time where people dressed costumes varying in decadence and simplicity everyday and a time where it was a social norm to live in your costumes?
It’s interesting how much I have become obsessed with the novelty of attending a masquerade ball and wearing masks, but I didn’t even know it’s origins or thought to discover why the whole concept was so appealing.
Today, I will unveil (get it?!) the history behind masques (masks) and masquerades and how they have made an impact in our world today.
Greek Orgins
If you take a moment to look back and review history in depth, you could say that perhaps every early civilization used masks in some form for some purpose. If you wanted to debate, you could say that Egyptians created the concept of masks first, in the creation of their “death masks.” But the Romans made masks attached to military helmets to intimidate the enemy in war. Even the Aztecs used masks to symbolize their gods. But I want to focus on the Greek’s theatrical costuming masks, because in my opinion, I believe that the Greeks’ theatrical costumes, ingenuity, and landmarking brilliancy by establishing today’s theater practices and traditions which have been carried on for centuries. Whereas, the other early civilizations’ practices of using masks have been abandoned or forgotten through time and extinction.
Greek Theater mask. circa 300-31 B.C., Hellenistic Period. Source: National Geographic.
Back in the day, Greek Tragedies and Comedies were the most popular kinds of performances done throughout the empire. In fact, every city and town had an outdoor amphitheater, each different but with some major similar features. The earliest surviving tragedy in existence dates back to 472 B.C., written by Aeschylus entitled Persians, a play about heroic myths where the protagonist draws reference and influence from the cults (sacred stories of life after death) in Africa. The play also incorporated hot-political topics which ridiculed the rulers of the empire.
Understand this, the concept of tragedies was focused around mocking many of the elite members of the Athenian society. Thus, the elite folk created plays, Greek Comedies, in response to the rather insulting tragedies. The Metropolitan Museum of New York commented on the general atmosphere of comedies as “no limit to speech or action in the comic exploitation of sex and other bodily functions.” Thus began the creation of outlandish costumes, and therefore masks were heavily incorporated. Actors would wear grotesque masks, add padding to their bodies and wear frightening costumes.
Comedies in the first half of the 4th century B.C., were noted to be over the top… as in basically having more Burn Book-worthy addicting drama than Mean Girls and Gossip Girl combined. But by the 3rd century, comedies began to reflect less showy costumes and began to reflect the fashions of real life. “Subtle differentiation of masks worn by the actors paralleled the finer delineation of character in the texts of New Comedy, which dealt with private and family life, social tensions, and the triumph of love in a variety of contexts (The Met).”
Medieval Influence – Bringing back trends
1615. Oil on Canvas. Victoria & Albert Museum.
From the Middle Ages to the early Renaissance (13-15th centuries), the traditional theatrical masks were primarily worn to celebrate a national victory or to welcome an elite member of society through the use of parades, floats (incorporating moving stage pieces on carts), entertainment and through costumes and showcasing splendor that ruler possessed. This odd movement was seen as a fun past-time rather than a treacherous crime as portrayed in movies.
This practice became especially popular during the 1300s in France, and is essentially known as being the birthplace of the Masquerade. In light of this jolly event, people were free to become someone or something else, abandoning reality and freely living as an imposter to the classes (I will mention this later).
Royal Influence
Women also wore masks to cover up scars and damaged skin on their faces from the plague, illness, and other beauty-damaging elements.
In the 16th century, the traditional theatrical masks slowly evolved into becoming a fashion accessory, showing status and rank, and one’s occupation. Instead of being made of paper, pottery, metal or stone as was used for traditional mask making methods, these masks were primarily made of black velvet (white was used too, but wasn’t as popular) – called a Visard or Moretta Mask– and covered the entire face. In portraiture and illustrations, it looks as though the artist made a mistake painting the face, and covered it up by painting a black circle over the face. This fashion trend was heavily influenced by Queen Elizabeth I of England. Interestingly, this is a historical feature you don’t see in Hollywood (can you think of a single movie where the black mask was worn?).
Cardboard and silk mask for Lady Clapham doll 1690-1700, British Galleries. Source: V&A Museum.
According to Fashionologia Historiana, “no high-ranking or virtuous woman dared to go out on the streets without a mask, and it seems that the mask function was equivalent to a veil – hence it was used for incognito protection.”
It was said that these masks were used to protect women’s makeup and skin from the sun, wind and dust from the streets. Additionally, many of these masks were made with glass through the eye slits… basically becoming the original 16th century sunglasses.
Not to mention, this was an era of heightened brilliancy and creativity, as shown through the works of William Shakespeare, who used costumes and masks in many of his plays, comedies, and tragedies. Because of his wildly famous couple (Romeo and Juliet) meeting at a masquerade ball, this only intensified the mask’s popularity.
That’s all for now! To be continued next week… isn’t this so riveting… – Elise
Additional Research:
Ancient Masks to Renaissance: Archaic Wonder
Greek Masks: History of Masks
Further insight on Greek Theater.
The Original Masquerades: All Thats Interesting
Medieval Plague Doctor Mask: Ancient Origins
Medieval Masks of Shame: Ancient Pages